June
18
2010
By Greg Sacks
One can't discuss the Indian town of Munnar without mentioning the British empire—they came for the strategic military position, but they stayed for the tea. How British can you get?
Visit Munnar town today and you'll find a few scrappy blocks lined with internet cafes, bakeries, and guest houses packed together cheek by jowl. A dazzle of tuk-tuks whiz about to and fro, jockeying for business and carrying all manner of loads. Munnar town is no Eden, but if you lift your chin just one degree and let your gaze fix on the surrounding hills, chances are you might trip on your jaw. The beauty of this hill station is breathtaking, and it's no wonder it was a summer resort for the British government and is now a popular honeymoon destination for locals.
In the late 1700s the Brits climbed up to Munnar to intercept the conquering army of Tippu Sultan, who had his sights set on Travancore. What they found was astounding—a wild and perfumed jungle-scape at 1,600m above sea level, thick with sandalwood, pepper and cardamom. Soon a road was built to bring these precious spices to port, and the North Travancore Land Planting and Agricultural Society was formed. In short time Munnar became a summer retreat for British elites in search of a cooler climate, and hobbyist tea planters established small scale plantations in the surrounding hills. Nowadays there are 30 or so plantations, the majority of them owned by Tata Group's Kannan Devan Tea Estate. Not a bad little empire, considering that tea, after water, is the most widely consumed beverage in the world.
Walking amongst the tea is a must when visiting Kerala, and many of the bungalows originally built for plantation managers have since been converted into hotels. Its a touristed area for backpackers and luxury seekers alike, but with a good guide (and we know a few) you can escape the crowds and lose yourself in a sea of green.
Greg Sacks kept his pinkies raised, and his face well protected from the sun, while honeymooning in India this year. Get in touch and take a peek at our trip planning site if you're interested in an Indian exploration of your own.