July
16
2010
By Rudston Steward
Head southeast from Burgos and you’ll find yourself in a realm of crumbling castles, Castilian cowboys and immaculate Romanesque cloisters. Then veer left over the Sierra de la Demanda mountains towards La Rioja—and some of the most spectacular hiking country in Spain.
The area between Castile and southwestern La Rioja is off the tourist map, which tends to fast-forward to either the city of Burgos (to the west) or the wine bodegas of the Riojan plains (to the north). The unexplored and overlooked territory in between has more tricks up its sleeve than crafty El Cid himself, and more glinting rugged charm than a Charlton Heston smile.
The Arlanza River formed the first frontier of the Reconquista in the 10th century, when Count Fernan Gonzalez established a series of castles along its banks. A number of these, in varying states of elegant disrepair, await the intrepid explorer—as do the spartan little hermitages and opulent monasteries that dot the countryside between the towns of Covarrubias and Salas de los Infantes. And be sure, also, to seek out the Neolithic dolmens and fossilized dinosaur tracks tucked away amongst the area’s Visigothic shrines and Mozarabic chapels.
Transhumance, the yearly migration of livestock for grazing to and from Extremadura in southern Spain, is still practiced here by some. Cowboys and shepherds are thus regular features at your local meson (restaurant). They are usually seen swilling beakers of Duero wine and devouring the region’s gastronomic trademark, morcilla—the best blood pudding you will ever taste. Head for Restaurante de Galo in Covarrubias for the cream of the crop.
Beyond the plains, the Sierra de la Demanda mountains preserve some of the most unspoilt and extensive hiking country in Spain. With peaks over 2,000m above sea level (some, like Neila and Urbion, have glacial lakes), this is a happy hunting ground for hikers, trekkers, day-trippers and climbers. Base yourself either in Neila or the slightly larger town of Quintanar de las Sierras to go exploring the high hills. For very simple, very friendly accommodation in the latter, try Hostal Santo Domingo.
Once you’ve had your fill of the fresh mountain air, the seemingly endless trails through pine, oak and beech woods, and the wide vistas over the Castilian plateau, traverse the sierras and drop down to the plains of Najera. Then reward yourself with a bottle of Riojan Reserva, a bowl of bold sopa de ajo (garlic soup) and a rack of that justifiably famous Riojan lamb. A meal fit for a Castilian count—or cowboy.
Rudston Steward has more stamps in his passport than an international jewel-thief. But he prefers truffles to diamond heists, and he's a fine-tuned nose to the ground for Trufflepig in Spain, Jordan, Greece, Italy and beyond.