The Coromandel Peninsula is a prime example of a classic local getaway, especially during the summer season. A popular spot for Auckland’s city folk to have a ‘bach’ (cottage), it is a short jaunt from the big city and a wonderful throwback to simple beach life. The attraction of the area is the abundance of nature and ocean activities, like hiking, fishing, hunting, and kayaking.

I recently visited the Coromandel and had the serious pleasure of spending a night at 970 Lonely Bay, a lovely lodge just steps from the ocean on a secluded part of the Peninsula. Beautifully decorated, and masterfully hosted by Loring Stewart, who was just about the best host we could hope for, I couldn’t have imagined a more genuinely welcoming experience.

Now that I think of it, the room was pretty welcoming as well. We were in the Terrace Suite, with a huge private outdoor seating and dining area. Our spacious digs even had a cozy little private loft space with an extra bed, ideal for families. Also worth mentioning is the amazing food, lovingly prepared by Loring herself. We were wowed at her daring—she took a shot at soufflé for 8 for the first time, in a new oven, without a window. And she nailed it.

If you’re planning a visit to New Zealand sometime soon, try and set aside a few extra days to visit 970 Lonely Bay. While the Coromandel offers less obvious treasures than some of the places on the popular path, the pleasure of staying just inches from a blissfully calm beach is reward enough.

Mike wants to tell you more about Lonely Bay. Give him a ring to hear all about it. 

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Cafe Gitane is not the fanciest table in town. It’s not especially large, nor particularly gorgeous. It’s neither cutting edge nor consciously cool. But it has a legion of regulars (most of whom seem to be local, but who knows) and it feels to me like an original. It’s cosy, characterful (in an old shoe kind of way), and from my experience of going there for almost ten years, totally reliable. Were it not for the ‘Maroc’ map on the wall and couscous on the menu, one could easily miss the nominally Moroccan influence. And that’s probably a good thing, since Cafe Gitane is not about a theme nor over-egged concept.

It’s just about finding a small table, ordering a simple and healthy dish (the smoked trout salad and avocado on toast are both splendid), maybe leafing through one of the magazines on the rack and perhaps picking up on someone else’s conversation. Turn your ringer off (blissfully phone-free), make sure you have cash (sorry, no cards), and be prepared to wait a few minutes for somewhere to sit. Oh, and order a coffee, which comes with a sweet little chocolate on the side.

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One of the things I love about Paris is that it simultaneously manages to be both conspicuous and coy. In a sense, it’s the world’s most obvious place—glaringly gorgeous and positively popping out of its Haussmannian dress. And yet, it’s a city that keeps plenty secret, holding you slightly at bay which, of course, keeps you perennially interested.

I was reminded of this on a recent trip when I discovered a cultural gem that had been hiding from me in plain sight for years. Everyone knows the art-on-the-inside, architecture-on-the-outside Centre Pompidou, n’est ce pas? With its skeletal structure hulking over the 4th arrondissement it’s pretty hard to miss. But what about the discreet and diminutive Atelier Brancusi sitting quietly less than 50 feet away? Maybe I’ve been living under a rock or blinded by the City of Light, but I’d never heard of it.

Part of the appeal of the Atelier Brancusi is that it feels more like a workshop (atelier is the French word for workshop) than a museum or gallery. Though not actually the workshop of Constantin Brancusi, it’s an authentic facsimile of the sculptor’s original cluster of studios in the Montparnasse district of Paris. Starting in 1916 Brancusi formed, cast and chipped away in his studio for over 40 years, creating a phenomenal body of work—fluid and blocky sculptures in stone, wood, bronze and plaster. Lucky for us, Brancusi became something of a hoarder of his own art and as the years progressed decided to sell less and keep more, essentially turning his studio into a spatial sculpture of sculptures.

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Indochina is a gastronome’s delight. From lovingly prepared pho (the cure for all ills, in my opinion) in Vietnam to creamy amok fish curry and stir fried morning glory flowers (a personal favourite) in Cambodia, you’re bound to have many delicious dishes calling you back for more. There is, however, a flip side to this culinary coin—a number of dishes that the Western palate may not agree with, or consider downright icky. I’ll highlight a few:

Hot Vit Lon (a.k.a. Balut) is the partially developed embryo of a duck, boiled and eaten straight form the shell. It is a common snack in certain regions and is reputed to be best enjoyed with a cold beer. Want to watch Anthony Bourdain eat one? Click here.

Creepy Crawlies. You will no doubt see multiple examples of these on a trip through Indochina, in all shapes and sizes. Fried or grilled grubs, crickets, grasshoppers, silk worms, tarantulas and other multi-legged friends can be found at many a roadside stand or local market. These are particularly common in rural Cambodia, and considered a cheap source of good protein.

Kopi Luwak. What’s that you say? Well, it’s the most expensive coffee in the world, and it happens to be picked out of the droppings of the Indonesian civet cat.  Also commonly called weasel coffee, there are various grades ranging rom artificially made (with lab-created enzymes) to collected in the wild, and everything in between. Sounds nasty, right?  Well, the coffee is actually delicious, and has hints of chocolate. True story. If buying some in Vietnam, be careful, as people regularly get scammed into buying cheap normal coffee. And no, it will never taste as good as when you had it in Vietnam. Torontonians can buy the closely related Indonesian grown variety at the Green Beanery.

Durian. Probably the most well known and widespread of the bunch. You know when it’s around because you can smell it from a block away. You either love it or you hate it, but no matter what, you don’t want to get stuck on a 12-hour train ride with someone sporting one (trust us).

As much as it pains me to say it, dog and cat can be a regional specialty, particularly in the north of Vietnam. While I don’t personally agree with the practice, it is considered a delicacy.  Luckily, you aren’t bound to run into it much (if at all) on your travels.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying you shouldn’t try these, and more power to you if you do (except maybe that last one). Please send us pictures. They may not be for everyone, but sampling these local specialties will certainly make your food trip to Indochina memorable, and at the very least you get some serious bragging rights. Also, unless you search these dishes out, or have a guide specifically point them out, you would likely walk right by. So don’t worry, there is plenty of other amazing food waiting for you in Indochina.

Mike loves a good grilled grub, and can get down with some Durian (as long as it’s creamy). Give him a ring to regale him of tales of your own gastric adventures. 

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One thing New Zealand has no shortage of is caravans. You see examples from the ultra-modern to the mega-weary, and everything in between. More importantly, the sheer volume of vintage caravans that are still in beautiful condition is staggering. They are passed down from parent to child and are an intricate part of a very unique New Zealand lifestyle. You regularly see an aged Land Rover pulling a trailer that looks straight out of a Mad Men family vacation, and finding yourself desperately wanting to be part of that action. Prime examples are everywhere, and there have even been books written about them. One thing for certain is that even if they are permanently parked, converted into roadside diners or just downright batty (do you really want your teen out of the house that badly?), you will have no shortage of example as you cruise down the beautiful New Zealand highways.

If camping is not your thing (and hey, it’s not for many), we have lots of hookups with fantastic lodges, and even the odd helicopter fly-in camp that may be better suited to your taste. So, give us a ring and we can make sure you are travelling in style.

Mike is ready, willing, and able to talk all things New Zealand camping. 

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Bryce is currently taking recommendations for the best lobster roll in the city, email her and let her know your picks. 

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In most of the major cities and towns of Spain, you’ll find an AC Hotel, a Hospes hotel, or an NH Hotel. Totally different in style from the Paradores, these are more new Spain than old: sleek, stylish, and good value. I never thought I’d say this, but if you’re struggling with hotel selection and can’t pick one B&B from another, you can do worse then chuck away your guidebooks and your magazine clippings, and limit your hotel selections to just these three chains.

The NH hotels are consistently reliable, if rarely amazing–but they’re often very well located and good value, as in the case of the Amistad Cordoba.  The only problem is there’s so many of them; but use the map feature on their website and it’s pretty easy to separate the wheat from the chaff.

The AC Hotels are in a different league; at least their AC Selection hotels are. I love them–these are hotels that can hold their own with any in terms of both service they offer and the buildings they inhabit. In Madrid, there’s the Palacio de Retiro and the Santo Mauro, two excellent hotels that are at once stylish, comfortable and discreet–and also both totally different from each other. The Santo Mauro resembles a Parisian Hausmann building, with large apartments, tall windows and parquet floors. The Palacio del Retiro is a mansion fronting the Retiro park, with large rooms, a downstairs spa, and beautiful furnishings. I can safely say I’ve never slept in a larger bed in my life.

The Hospes are not all great, but it’s not because they don’t dare to be different. Chain hotels these are not. Best of all is the Palacio del Bailio in Cordoba, really a class act, and a spacious retreat in a tightly-squeezed and busy town.

At Trufflepig we naturally tend towards individually run, small and unique B&Bs and hotels, and it’s true that they generally make the job more fun, and travel more interesting. But when hotel chains do get it right, we try not to be pig-headed about it.

Though Jack Dancy is rarely shackled by chains of any kind, at times he’s bound to his desk neck deep in trip planning.  If you’d like some help sorting the wheat from the chaff, email Jack for help or read more of his opinion on the Sounder.

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It’s a tough match, of course. How can you choose a winner in a battle of Buenos Aires vs. Rio de Janeiro, the wilds of Patagonia vs. the beaches of Salvador, or the hikes of the Lake District vs. the towns of Minas Gerais? There is one thing both countries share, however, and quite literally: the incredible Iguacu/Iguazu Falls. Choose your allegiance to determine your spelling.

Our South America expert, Anton (aka “The Caballero”) is often asked by clients to explain the differences between the sides, and ultimately to decide which one is best. It’s a tough question to say the least. We thought it only fair to let the two sides battle it out in a series of categories to determine a winner.

Round One: Panoramic View

While the Argentinian side has some amazing outlooks to see the over 150 individual waterfalls in the park, Brazil’s vantage point a little further back allows you to see the sheer magnitude of this world wonder. This round goes to Brazil.

Round Two: The Close-Up

The Argentinian side of the falls has a more extensive raised walkway system which allows you to stand directly on top of several of the waterfalls. If you’re looking to get snuggly with Iguazu, Argentina is the winner.

Round Three: The Devil’s Throat
The Devil’s Throat is the name of the falls’ crowning giant. Set at the end of the path on both sides, its horseshoe shape and thunderous sound make it arguably the most impressive part of the falls. On the Brazilian side, you are lower down and can cross part of the river on an extended walkway to get right into the centre of the action. On the Argentinian side, the walkway is suspended above the Devil’s Throat for views from above. Although the Brazilian side allows for a ponchos required experience right in the heart of it, we give the point to Argentina for the drop dead gorgeous photo opportunities.

Round Four: Atmosphere

While the Argentinian side has a more extensive walkway system, and also a train to connect a few of the trails, this can also make it feel more touristy and crowded than the Brazilian side. Our point goes to Brazil for a more natural feeling in its park.

Round Five: Wildlife
Coatis (a sort of raccoon/anteater hybrid) on both sides of the falls are as common as seagulls on a boardwalk; and even bolder when it comes to your food. On the Argentinian side, however, the sheer volume of butterflies is an amazing extra. Argentina wins this one.

It appears that the championship belt goes to Argentina by a hair. But in truth, you need to see the fight for yourself to choose your own personal victor. Visit both sides and you won’t be disappointed. Nobody has ever objected to a double dose of rainbows.

Amy can’t make up her mind about which one she prefers, call her to persuade her one way or the other. 

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It begins with a jeep that may or may not have holes in the floor (this is one journey that I promise will be worth it). The many jeeps leave from the town of Barreirinhas twice a day, crossing a river on a small barge before continuing over increasingly bumpy sand tracks. If a local asks you to plug one of the holes in the floor with your foot (so that the small pond you’re driving through doesn’t erupt into the cab), just do as she says.

On the other end of this molar-jolting journey, you’ll pull up to the edge of a towering desert of white sand dunes. Hike inside to see the magic: clear blue lagoons nestled into the valleys, perfect for a cooling dip. Take an afternoon tour to see the sunset over this incredible view on your way out of the park.

After you’ve spent one day with the dunes, take a boat trip up the Preguicas river, stopping at Little Lencois and other small towns along the way. The prime site on this tour may not be originally included, so be sure to ask the boat driver for it: the ultimate beach you must see is the Punto do Brasilia.

Where the river meets the ocean, this expanse of white sand is almost as bright as snow. Exposed only at low tide, it may have you agreeing with the Flat Earth Society before you leave; it really does feel like the edge of the world. If you do happen to fall off this planet there, rest assured you’ll die very happy.

Amy’s busy hanging out on the edge of the world, but she’d be happy to talk to you about Punto de Brasilia. 

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Huvafen’s marketing materials put forth an image of South Beach hedonism meets Dubai bling, which fooled me into expecting a pretty yet shallow experience. What I found instead was a sophisticated and soulful place, saucy at times but in harmony with its surroundings. Huvafen Fushi is like the goldilocks of the Maldives—not too barefoot, not too chic, but just right.

The Maldives have a lot going for them: year-round sunshine, pristine islands, rich underwater life. But all this can be found in the Seychelles, Mauritius, or the Caribbean for that matter. What really sets the Maldives apart are the Maldivians themselves. Huvafen Fushi is owned and operated by a Maldivian company called Universal Enterprises, who’ve assembled an amazing team of warm, intuitive and extremely professional local staff working under the watchful eye of Noel Cameron, whose management pedigree includes Singita’s Grumeti Reserves in Tanzania. These kinds of intangibles won’t feature on the web or in a brochure, but they lift a place to the top the heap.

Huvafen’s 43 bungalows and pavillions vary in style and size, yet all are generously spaced around the island. It’s hard to say which I prefer—the unrivaled privacy of the beach villas, with their vast outdoor bathrooms featuring fountains and pools, or the sexy and far removed ocean villas, reached by magically-lit boardwalks and perched on stilts over the emerald lagoon. Three unique restaurants serve extraordinarily fresh ingredients in different settings, and there’s an amazing collection of toys, including two luxury dhows perfect for day cruising or longer overnight adventures. Then there’s the giant fibre-optic lit infinity pool that shimmers at night, and quite possibly the best swimming beach in all of the Maldives. Oh, and lest I forget the underwater spa, the only one in the world, a kind of reverse aquarium six meters under the sea where the beautiful fish are on the outside looking in.

Huvafen is downright flirtatious you might say, and I for one have been seduced.

Greg Sacks is your ideal trip planner: not too snobby, not too hippie (well, maybe a little…), but just right. Email him if you’re interested in finding the perfect bed in the Maldives.

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