Trufflepig: The Sounder

High/Low: Sicily

Thu, 17 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

High: Grand Hotel Timeo
550 USD and up
When you think about a “top dog” hotel in Italy, the rooms in your mind probably look a lot like the Grand Hotel Timeo. It’s everything you’ve ever dreamed of from a luxury hotel, including large rooms, expansive gardens, and the ruins of a Greek amphitheatre just behind it. As Rudston says, “it’s the kind of hotel where you arrive, and never look back.” Why would you when you're surrounded by this kind of Sicilian grandeur. With a spa, restaurants, boating trips, and a sister hotel (Villa Sant'Andrea) down on the waterfront which shares its access to the beach, you don’t have to leave the property if you don’t want to. For those who do, however, the town of Taormina is one of the prettiest on the Mediterranean and yours to explore. This is the kind of grand dame you’ll want to end your trip with. Just beware of the post-hotel depression that may creep in on the way home.

Low: Casa Talia
140 USD and up
There’s something fantastic about a well-run bed & breakfast. It feels comfortable, not fussy, and it’s as though some distant relatives are taking care of you while you visit. Casa Talia is this sort of place, and is excellently located in an unexplored part of Sicily. The southeast is relatively un-touristed, which means you’ll have cheese tastings and winery visits nearby more or less to yourself. Marco is a formidable host, and will give you plenty of advice on nearby Greek ruins and Baroque towns to visit, which really is the key when visiting an area that’s off the average travel circuit. And when you aren’t out and about on Sicilian adventures, you’ll find yourself on a gorgeous terrace or among a garden of lemon trees. It’s just like home, with (much) better views.

Amy Smithers is our Sounder editor, tasked with crawling inside the minds of our trip planners and sharing what she finds in there.

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Firmdale Hotels

Wed, 16 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Classy, quirky, chic and colourful, the Firmdale properties offer a comfortable and relaxed base from which to explore the somewhat frenetic and often frenzied city. There are currently six in Central London (with a new addition, the Dorset Square, due to open next month), plus the Crosby Street Hotel in New York.

It's hard to pick a favourite but I love the Covent Garden Hotel, as it has a great restaurant in Brasserie Max and you can sit and watch the world go by on a sunny day near the hive of activity that is the Seven Dials. The Haymarket is the only one of the hotels with a pool, and is perfect for the West End's world-class theatre. The Charlotte Street Hotel is an upper-class den of loveliness with another great spot to sip champagne street-side, while The Soho Hotel has a fantastic cinema club with a great screening room. The final two in West London are perfectly placed for exploring Knightsbridge and Kensington (the Number Sixteen has a gorgeous, verdant, secret garden).

The style over all the hotels is consistent yet varied. As owners and designers Tim and Kit Kemp say, "hotels should be living things and not stuffy institutions". As such they are contemporary and bright with lots of detail, yet unfussy. The service is personable and attentive without being overbearing. In sum, a fresh and welcoming stay for your time in the Great British capital.

Anton is scouting the best of London leading up to the opening of the Olympic Games on July 27th.

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Discovering Honduras

Tue, 15 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

I had the pleasure of touring around the country on a short investigatory trip, and was stunned by its natural beauty. From the Mayan Ruins of Copan, to the birdlife and verdant landscape of Pico Bonito, and the gorgeous beaches and gently lapping, crystal clear water around the island of Roatan, it was a sheer delight.

A three-centre trip like mine gives you a great taste of the country. Start in Copan near the border with Guatemala and stay at the brilliantly rustic Hacienda San Lucas. Set among the hills overlooking the Copan Valley, it is an authentic retreat with great horseback riding, and is only half an hour from the ruins. That's not to mention the excellent home-made food—you'd have a tough time finding tastier tamales.

The next stop is the lush valleys and peaks of the Pico Bonito, a favoured bird-watching spot. Pico Bonito is also fabulous for hiking, trekking, and some awesome white-water rafting through exceptionally beautiful rivers. Nature's landscaping here is breathtaking. Stay at the lovely Pico Bonito Lodge deep in the green interior, in a private bungalow with the sounds of the jungle all around.

A short flight from here over the lulling Caribbean takes you to the large island of Roatan. It is famed for its diving and there are a wealth of great spots to both scuba and snorkel. Plus, there is marvellous Barefoot Cay—with just nine accommodations on its own private cay, it is the best spot on the island to get away from it all, the glimmering water just steps from your private beach casita. Delicious meals can be served privately or by the pool restaurant; no buffets here. With gourmet cuisine, a spa and a 5-star dive shop, you'll finish your trip relaxed and ready to scoff at the press who warn against visiting Honduras.

Anton apparently has a flat in London, but he hasn't been seen there much lately. He is more often found jetting around South and Central America in the name of "research".

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On My Plate: France

Fri, 11 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Where: Cordes sur Ciel in Southwestern France.

What: Le pique-nique. A wheel of bread large enough to use as a spare tire, ripped into manageable hunks. Vast slices of cured ham with a delicious perimeter of fat (that is NOT to be removed). Blue cheese. A bag of arugula to add kick in lieu of pepper. Sweet little freshly-picked tomatoes. Jam that seemed like a good idea at the time. And simple red wine served in an upended water bottle (balanced gingerly amongst Bosc pears). I think the act of dining outdoors without plates, cutlery and/or tables puts the focus so squarely on the food we're actually aware of what we're eating. The texture, the taste, the messiness. Deliciousness.

Charlie Scott is currently in New York where he may just put together an impromptu picnic in Central park.

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La Esmerelda

Mon, 07 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Punta del Este has held international acclaim for some years now. Party goers, polo players and the international elite all head to the Ibiza of the south for the “January season”, to enjoy the golden beaches and lavish social events. But Uruguay has more to offer than simply a playground for the rich and famous. It serves up arguably better steak than Argentina, its Tannat wine has won many an award, and if as a tourist you want to experience true gaucho and country living, Uruguay offers a more intimate, unexploited alternative to the pricey and commercialised Pampas.

La Esmeralda is one of Uruguay’s gems. Located only three hours from Buenos Aires or Montevideo, yet blissfully secluded, this stunning traditional estancia combines rustic charm with understated luxury. It is run by Marcela and David Stirling, and has been in their family for over 100 years. It’s the ideal place to unwind and enjoy the peaceful and expansive countryside that surrounds you, read a book by the pool or tuck into one of David’s spectacular asados (BBQ). For those more actively inclined, the basic room rate includes a ‘hack’, where you can ride one of the estancia’s carefully trained horses on an exploration of their fertile farm and beyond. Heading over rolling hills, through lakes and streams; you will see an abundance of bird life and feel the stress of everyday life fall away.

More adventurous still is the gaucho experience. This day activity is perfect for anyone who wishes to get to know more about local culture and spend a day riding. For the experienced riders you will be offered the opportunity to help with the herding of the cattle, one of the most challenging, yet unique experiences I’ve ever tried. If that doesn’t appeal, how about an authentic polo lesson? The sport has been part of the Stirling family for generations and David Junior’s team, La Dolfina, won the Palermo Open in 2011.

La Esmeralda strikes the almost impossible balance of being a home away from home, whilst providing you with the luxury, facilities and service of a boutique hotel. The Stirling family are warm and welcoming experts on Uruguayan life, culture and history, and will go out of their way to make sure your every need is catered to.

Anna Templeton is usually found across the border in Argentina, but it takes very little to convince her to visit Uruguay and soak up some estancia hospitality.

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On My Plate: Morocco

Fri, 04 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Where: Someone's home in the small town of M'Hamid, where the road ends and the Sahara Desert properly begins.

What: Chicken tajine. The word tajine refers to the round earthenware dish (with distinctive conical top), the vessel for Morocco's most versatile meal. Often topped with a mound of fruits and/or vegetables (whatever looks good at the market that day), the tajine usually features chicken, beef or lamp patiently braised in a fragrantly spiced sauce. Only an animal would approach this platter with cutlery. Far better to dive in with a fistful of traditional bread (just tear a chunk of the small round loaves), pinching some meat and soaking up some of the heavenly juice at the bottom.

Charlie Scott will be back on the tagine circuit when he attends PURE this November.

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Imagining Iceland

Thu, 03 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Whether you have kids, or you just enjoy acting like them every now and then, Iceland caters to that little adventure-seeker inside you. There's almost nothing you can't do in this country, and the beauty is that it can all be found in a fairly condensed area; try quad biking, cave tubing, volcano hiking, whale watching, blokarting, dog-sledding (year round on the glaciers), ice climbing, scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing or horseback riding. And then perhaps an evening ghost tour.

We suggest a small circuit of the country for families—not too much moving about but enough to keep things interesting. Begin in the capital of Reykjavik as your jumping off point for a day trip around the Golden Circle—you'll see Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Falls (the largest in Europe), and Haukadalur, a remarkable geothermal valley with hot springs and geysers that erupt regularly. After that, get away from the tourist path with a visit to Hotel Budir in Snaefellsnes (we speculate that this may have been Snuffleupagus' birthplace), where you can enjoy the coastline, whale watch, or go glacier hiking. Finally, head to South Iceland and stay at Hotel Ranga, where the activity list goes on and on, and you can always cap the day with a viewing of the northern lights, as seen from the parent-tested (and approved) jacuzzi.

Amy Smithers still has no idea how to pronounce Snaefellsnes, and applauds the population of Iceland on their remarkably twisty tongues.

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All Ages Safari

Wed, 02 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

Visiting Africa with a family requires plenty of special considerations. Malaria risk areas can be a concern, and many lodges won't allow children in the land rovers on game drives for safety reasons. This is not to say you shouldn't go, you just need to choose a camp that is suited to your family's needs. Our top three:

For Babies & Toddlers: Jaci's Lodges
Safari with babies is generally quite a challenge, but Jaci's has built their whole model around small children in particular: they have family friendly villa or cottage accommodations, and run separate (shorter) game drives specifically designed for the littlest conservationists. It's all about making things more fun for kids, and in doing so more fun for their parents. While comfortable and well-appointed, nothing is too precious or fancy in terms of style and design, and the property also has an adults only section, so you'll never feel like you're bothering anyone if you come with kids in tow. In addition, Jaci's is located on the Madikwe Game Reserve, which is entirely malaria-free. This means you don't have to worry about anti-malarial medications (which are not recommended for young children).

For Kids 6-12: Tswalu Kalahari
At this age guiding is key, because it's important to engage kids. Tswalu is the kind of place that guides are excited to work at because it's so different—those who are tired of just driving a jeep around will come here, so there's plenty of great talent and enthusiasm at the camp. Some of the weirder (and cooler) excursions on offer for kids at Tswalu include a night walk searching for scorpions with an infrared light, safaris on horseback, and the chance to see the giant Kalahari lions, which has never left one child bored. For the family that wants their own private space, you have the ability to take over Tarkuni—the Oppenheimer family's own personal home at Tswalu. It's just you and the desert out here... and your own private guide, driver and chef.

For Teenagers: Phinda Private Game Reserve
Phinda has many different lodge options, but the most teenager friendly is Zuka Lodge—a cosy private property made up of four thatched Zululand bush cottages, it's a fantastic way to stay close together without getting too close for teenage comfort, and a great home base to call your own while you explore the whole reserve. Phinda caters to the short attention span of teenagers because because it has a wide range of bush environments: from mountains to plains to forests. There's even a coastline nearby which you can fly to to see whale sharks and hatching turtles, or perhaps go for a scuba dive. When you're back on the reserve you can also participate in a variety of research projects, such as leopard and rhino tracking—and great guides mean teens can split apart from the family on expeditions they're interested in while remaining in safe hands.

Amy Smithers is our Sounder editor and safari dreamer writing all about family travel this week.

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Tutto Per La Famiglia

Tue, 01 May 2012 04:00:00 GMT

I recently asked Rudston (our expert in all things Italiano) why the country is such a great one for families to visit together. His top six reasons to take your brood to Italy:

1. Italy's three huge art cities (Rome, Florence and Venice) aren't just for grown-ups. There is a huge range of guiding geared specifically toward getting kids involved and interacting. And for the junior painters in your family, we know an incredible artist based in Florence named Sharon Okun, who leads workshops for kids in her very own studio, or perhaps in a castle in Umbria if you'd like a change of scenery.

2. Italy is a great place to get active. The whole family can cycle and hike together in Tuscany, or (depending on the kids' ages) go hiking in the Dolomites. There are outdoor activities (with amazing views) available for all levels of ability.

3. Villa rental is extremely popular, and there are plenty of private spots on the Sicilian coastline where everyone can stay under one roof, but also have the independence to do some exploring (or temporary escaping) on their own.

4. The food in Italy is delicious enough to be a treat for parents, without being a chore for picky eaters to get down. Kids tend to love the food in Italy because the flavours, while rich, are relatively simple. Even the least exotic palate can enjoy a good plate of spaghetti bolognese.

5. Italy is exotic enough to provide parents with plenty of interesting new things to see, but not so much so that youngsters will be overwhelmed with culture shock. It's a fantastic country for the novice traveller to start building nomadic aspirations. Prepare to finance future "gap years".

6. Italians love kids. Walk into a restaurant with a cute kid in your arms and you’re everyone’s new best friend. As opposed to some countries where children seem to be simply tolerated, your kids will be part of the big, welcoming Italian family before you know it.

Amy Smithers is considering a side career as a travel nanny, and would gladly take your little ones off your hands and away to Italy for some cultural immersion. Or spaghetti immersion.

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Turkey For Families

Mon, 30 Apr 2012 04:00:00 GMT

He was right. Travel is the most incredible introduction to history you can ask for. At the same time, historically rich destinations can be dry for kids and teenagers if they aren’t done right. Enter Turkey—where else can you show the kids the history of both Asia and Europe in the same morning?

Why It’s Great for Families
Turkey is a place with so many engaging activities, you can't help but be taken in. Balloon over a moon-like landscape, spend days cruising and swimming, throw pottery, or explore underground cities. It beats grade 10 geography every time.

How To Plan
Even though Turkey has plenty of regions and a wide variety of terrain, short domestic flights make it easy to get around, and it’s surprisingly uncomplicated to plan a great 10-15 day trip (which means the junior members of your party won’t fall far behind in their classes). The key is to split your trip into a few chunks: urban, village, and coastal.

We suggest beginning with two days in Istanbul’s old town of Sultanahmet, getting your grounding in classical Turkey by visiting the Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace. Then allow three nights to see Cappadocia, where you can go hot air ballooning, cave exploring, and horseback riding (among other things). Next, visit Bodrum on Turkey’s coast to cruise on a traditional wooden gulet, climb up into a castle overlooking the harbour, and check out the underwater archaeology museum, where gold ingots and treasure from sunken ships are all on display. From there it’s just a short trip to see the ruin of Ephesus—an abandoned Roman city ripe for kids to explore—before heading back to Istanbul for a final day or two before your departure. Your kids (and their history teachers) will thank you.

Amy Smithers misses the days when all of her travels were parent-paid. Take advantage while you can, kids.

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