Trufflepig: The Sounder

I Got 99 Problems But A Beach Ain't One

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 05:00:00 GMT

So imagine my glee when I arrived at Soneva Fushi, a private island in the Maldives with a "no shoes" policy. They actually took my sandals from me, put them in a lovely burlap bag, and I wasn't to see them until I left. I don't think I've ever been happier in my life than I was on that little piece of paradise.

I like beaches I can walk for hours, if not days—one of my favourite trips involves walking from hotel to hotel along the deserted beaches of Bahia while your bags are transported by dune buggy.

I like beaches where I can walk out for a kilometre without the water climbing past my knees—off the coast of Tanzania the shifting tides create virgin sand bars that appear and disappear within hours.

I like beaches with a steep shelf, that invite curling waves perfect for surf—Nosara, Costa Rica and Playa Escondido, Mexico are both playgrounds I hope to visit regularly for years to come. I like beaches that give way to a thousand colourful fish, like the ones in Northern Mozambique's Quirimbas Archipelago.

I like beaches backed by dunes (Lamu, Kenya) or hammocks (Tulum, Mexico) or cliffs (Varkala, India).

Whatever your reasons and tastes, I'm sure you'll agree there's nothing like a beach, especially when the icy tentacles of February take hold.

When Greg isn't planning safaris in Africa, you can find him ankle deep in exotic sand (it's posed many problems for our office cleaning staff).

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The Classic Car Club

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

The Classic Car Club has opened the world of vintage vehicles to the average punter. Membership gives you access to the fleet of 60 beautifully maintained, top of the line classic cars. Based on a point system, you can impress with a weekend away in a Jaguar E-type, swap your average hire car for something a little more special, or (like one member I met) collect your wife from the airport in a 60s Mercedes SL to earn extra brownie points. If like me you don’t have a spare £4K, but are curious to know what all the fuss is about, the classic car night drive (or day drive) is just for you. Founder Nigel Case and his team have plotted the perfect route, which he puts down to his dad being a black cabbie: “it’s in my blood”. They have just opened their newest branch in New York City, so now you can have a go on either side of the pond.

We met at 6:30 pm at Classic Car Club’s Old Street base, where we were given the low down on each of the cars we would be experiencing. The 1960 Volvo Amazon 122S (what?!), the 1973 Rolls Royce Corniche, the 1959 Jaguar XK150 S (smiles across the night drivers’ faces began to widen), the 1970 Mercedes SL, and the final pièce de résistance, a 1971 Jaguar E-type series 2 FHC, were met with whoops of joy.

Drivers head out in pairs and have half an hour driving each car with a break mid way through the night. The Mercedes SL was the first car I got my hands on, and considering I have only ever owned a Peugeot 106, I felt nervous maneuvering this stunning piece of machinery around the busy and often narrow streets of London. But as the traffic began to die down and the commuters headed home, my nerves rapidly subsided and I started to get a taste for speed, the smell of leather, and the sound of a purring Jaguar E-type 4-litre engine. The halfway point for the evening was at the National Theatre car park, a hidden gem with views across the Thames to Somerset House. The coffee (and biscuits) break gave us drivers a chance to analyze and wax lyrical about the cars, and the experts an opportunity to impress with their facts and insider tips.

The second part of the drive took us soaring past Buckingham Palace, sailing towards St Paul’s and onto Camden. During the four hours of driving, I received a record amount of attention and definitely the largest number of compliments I ever have; a classic car, without a doubt, improves your level of attractiveness. As we pulled into Old Street once more, I felt a pang of sadness; it was all over. Ah well, there’s always yearly membership…

When she's not racing around the streets of London in her vintage Mercedes, Anna Templeton is usually found in Argentina, tucking into an ojo de bife and sipping on a glass of Malbec; all in the name of exploring the culture, of course.

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Stop & Smell the Flowers

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

As luck would have it I am, in fact, into photography, flowers, and tiny candies shaped like fruit; it’s no surprise that when my travels brought me through Nice last September, I found myself right in my milieu. Armed with a sweet tooth, an early internal alarm, and my Canon 100mm macro lens, I was like a pig in... well, you get the point.

The best place to partake in the above is the Nice Flower Market, which happens daily except on Mondays (when it’s replaced with an equally intriguing antique and flea market) in the South-West corner of Vieux Nice on Cours Saleya. It’s best to get up as early as possible to avoid the crowds—somewhere between 6 am (for the intrepid) and 8 am (for those of us who enjoy a pain au chocolat and a café au lait before heading out).

Amongst the stalls of fresh flowers of every colour and variety (all grown locally in the South of France), you’ll also find amazing fresh produce, seafood, and the aforementioned infamous fruit-shaped candies. It’s a barrage on the senses—new smells, sounds, and a stunning array of colours come at you from every angle. Perfect for capturing the charming fishmonger and his display of fresh lobster, or the charming elderly couple shopping for their dinner. Nowhere else amongst the towns dotting the coast will you find this authenticity, simplicity, photographic potential... or this many tiny candies shaped like fruit. It’s an anomaly amongst the bathed-in-luxury background of the Riveria, and oh, what a lovely anomaly it is.

Melissa Joseph is the latest addition to Trufflepig's European planning team, bringing her wealth of floral and tiny fruit-shaped candy experience to the table, along with a few other amazing skills.

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Won in Translation

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

But I've always been smitten with what's written. India has a way with signage that's unlike anywhere else I know. It could be the juxtaposition of playful and poetic Hindi characters with crisp and familiar English lettering that you see on many signs. Or it might be the direct translations that are so polite and concise they move the whole message into the realm of mirth. Maybe it's the fabulous colouring or chaotic assemblage of many, many signs into mini, mini spaces. Whatever it is, when the writing is on the wall I love it.

Charlie Scott can be found wandering Toronto with his camera, desperately seeking signage as intriguing as India's.

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Extreme Swakopmund

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

The correct answer is d) all of the above.

Swakop, as it's called by the locals, is a charming little town set on the northwest coast of Namibia. This one-time German protectorate still retains a strong German character; many of its 42,000 residents speak German, and the streets are lined with fine examples of German architecture. It's a lovely place to spend a day visiting the shops, bartering with the sellers at the local craft market and enjoying the town’s quirky bars and restaurants. But if you love extreme sports, you’ll want to spend a lot longer than a day.

You could easily spend a week in Swakop and nearby Walvis Bay testing your adventure limits. On the water, you can kitesurf through the frigid waves, sea-kayak with hundreds of Cape fur seals or venture into the Atlantic Ocean for some deep-sea fishing. From the air, how about sky-diving over the desert, parasailing/paragliding along the dunes, or a scenic flight aboard a hot air balloon, helicopter or microlight plane. On land, speed through the dunes and along the rugged coastline on a quad-bike, take the easy way down Rossing Mountain on the zip-line or try your hand at sand-boarding or skiing down Namibia’s famous sand dunes—just remember there’s no chairlift!

When it comes to the origin of the town’s name, I assumed my Namibian guide was pulling one over on me when he told me that Swakopmund is derived from a tribal word meaning “excrement opening”. I have double and triple-checked this fact and incredibly it’s true. Apparently, the name was chosen long ago when the Swakop River would flood and carry the bodies of animals that had drowned along to the Atlantic Ocean. Rest assured, I didn’t see any “floaters” in the water during my visit last month.

Despite the town’s unusual name, it’s a great place to spend a couple of days while in Namibia. And if you don’t believe me, just remember that Brad and Angelina chose Swakop as the birthplace of their daughter, Shiloh in 2006—I have it on good authority that Brangelina know their sh*t.

For all your African trip planning needs (or if you just want to learn all the dirty words in cool tribal languages), Lori's the woman to call.

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Take a Hike

Wed, 11 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

Everest Base Camp, Nepal
This 12 day hike takes you into the heart of the Himalaya, through traditional local villages, past Sherpas, and to the Base Camp that sits on top of the world. Your goal for 2013 can be scaling the peak.

Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, Peru
One of the most rewarding hikes in the world, Machu Pichu shimmers on top of its jungle perch the first time you spot it—but you are still two days away. The trek brings you up over glacier mountain passes, then heads back down into the dense jungle; the topography changes like magic in front of your eyes. Your legs will feel the burn too.

Ciudad Perdida, Colombia
This challenging six day hike takes you deep into the jungle, across rivers and through waterfalls until you reach the ancient archeological site known as the Lost City of the Taironas, predating Machu Picchu by 650 years. Take that, Hiram Bingham.

Milford Track, New Zealand
After four days trekking along one of the most beautiful walking routes in the world, you'll get a pretty good idea why New Zealand's South Island is renowned for its scenery. To keep you motivated along the way, the hike ends at breathtaking Milford Sound, a waterfall-ringed fijord that's the pride of the country.

Snowman Trek, Bhutan
If just a few nights in the mountains seems too easy, sign yourself up for this month-long odyssey over 11 of Bhutan's mountain passes. For the slightly more pot-bellied among us, there are plenty of beginner hikes as well—in this untravelled country you're bound to find staggering scenery and otherworldly calm wherever you roam.

Matt Switzer is an adventure traveller and writer who enjoys exploring the far-flung corners of the world. He can currently be found in Toronto producing and hosting ‘Matt About Town' on RogersTV, a curious dive into the cultural side of the city.

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Bedtime Stories

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

Tucked away in the increasingly trendy, easterly part of London (Stepney Green) is the delightful 40 Winks Hotel. Boutique to the core, each room is its own entity; filled with antiques, trinkets and tasteful touches, all combined brilliantly to exude style and eccentricity.

Not surprisingly, its owner is top interior designer and ex fashionista David Carter. Mr Carter’s eye for detail does not end at his interiors. He is on site to make sure the nighties are vintage, the lighting is moody and your teacup is never empty. He is a stickler for the rules, so the strict dress code of "jimjams" is rigorously enforced; those who disobey will spend the night in “the naughty corner”. You must crack a riddle to gain entry; printed tickets are a big no no.

The storytellers of the evening vary depending on the theme. Our topic was men, women and relationships, and we enjoyed tales by Nell Phoenix and Sally Pomme Clayton, which were brilliantly executed and wittily told.

40 Winks is the perfect place to stay if you want to be near the fashionable East End, and a fantastic night out if you're looking for something quirky and different to do in London. Sign up to their mailing list to find out about the next bedtime stories evening: info@40winks.org.

40winks.org

When she's not listening to a story in her finest negligee, Anna Templeton is usually found in Argentina, tucking into an ojo de bife and sipping on a glass of Malbec; all in the name of exploring the culture, of course.

If you like what you read, book with us here, and while you're at it, become our fan on Facebook, and follow us on Twitter.

Seen Francisco

Tue, 03 Jan 2012 05:00:00 GMT

Going out with photography in mind somehow opens my eyes to the quotidian cool and quirky. I was in San Francisco last month with my camera, and snapped some random images that I thought were kind of fun. What a gorgeous city.

So, if your work day is dragging and you're looking for two-minute distraction, kick up your heels and go for a ride with your eyes wide open.

Charlie Scott would go pretty much anywhere you can imagine in the name of travel photography. He can be found compulsively editing his iPhoto library when he isn't on the road.

If you like what you read, book it with Trufflepig. You can also become our fan on Facebook, and follow us on Twitter.

Valparaiso

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 05:00:00 GMT

Valparaiso is just 90 minutes from Chile's elegant, currently buzzing capital of Santiago. It is also firmly placed in the 19th century in its colonial architecture, idiosyncratic avenues and sharply dipping streets. Many of these vertiginous slopes can be traversed by funiculars; these rackety, slightly shambolic, steep railways are a delightful way of peering into the local homes and down the charming lanes as you shudder and shake through the city.

This ampitheatre of a city is home to one of Latin America's most famed poets and authors, Pablo Neruda. His former abode is now a museum, "La Sebastiana", and a colourful cafe, which fits right into Valparaiso's tangle of kaleidoscopic roads. Where the owners of a building haven't drenched it in sunny pastels themselves, the local graffiti artists have stepped up to the plate to make things more interesting. As you perambulate the paths and narrow lanes, admire the stunning imagery, always with the glistening blue of the Pacific waving in the background.

As a day trip from Santiago, Valparaiso makes for an enjoyable excursion, but we recommend giving it more time by staying overnight in one of the two great boutique options. Stay at the delightful Zero or the elegant Casa Higueras in order to taste the city's evening pleasures and wake up to a stunning Pacific view. In the evening, watch the cascading city lights roll down into the moon dappled ocean, and enjoy a fine fishy meal at a place like the Oda Pacifico, as you sip on some Chilean wine and drink in the view.

Anton recently returned from fresh research in South America, where he bravely visited some of the continent's finest hotels, and worked as quality control administrator on several new wine varietals coming to an LCBO near you.

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Sofar Sounds

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 05:00:00 GMT

Co-founded by Rafe Offer, a music aficionado based in London, Sofar Sounds is an overhaul of the typical concert experience. Rafe and his friend Dave Alexander decided that live music was moving in the wrong direction; people were no longer going to gigs to listen to the bands and appreciate the tunes. Audiences were more interested in getting drunk and catching up. So Rafe and Dave decided on a more intimate way to get the focus back to the performer and the songs.

It all started with Dave on his guitar with some friends, in his living room. The evening was a success, and one friend took the idea to Paris, where again it was received positively. Rafe and Dave brought it to New York and from there it continued to grow. All gigs are live streamed on the Sofar Sounds website, and fans began to contact Dave and Rafe directly to ask if they could perform or host their own version, which is how the event has ended up in over seven countries worldwide and is still growing.

I arrived a little dubious, worried that as a chatterbox, I might find it hard to bite my tongue for several hours and could well find myself in the same uncomfortable situation I did a few years back, when I went to Ronnie Scott’s for a friend’s birthday. There, on making the slightest comment or remark I was "shushed" within an inch of my life, as though I was in a school assembly rather than a jazz bar.

I was not prepared to find myself transfixed, moved, and totally silenced. Although unsigned, the bands involved are remarkably good; “professional amateurs” as Rafe calls them. Each one is carefully selected based on talent, and matched to create an evening that is eclectic, mellow, upbeat, and invites a good old sing along.

The nights are free, all they ask is that if you like the bands you support them. The future of music? Me, Rafe and several rooms full of others think so. Sofar Sounds is currently in Berlin, London, Buenos Aires, LA, Sydney, and New York (among others) so check the site for a night of local music to add to your next trip.

When she's not entranced by her neighbourhood musicians, Anna Templeton is usually found in Argentina, tucking into an ojo de bife and sipping on a glass of Malbec; all in the name of exploring the culture, of course.

If you like what you read, book with us here, and while you're at it, become our fan on Facebook, and follow us on Twitter.