Trufflepig: The Sounder

The Unorthodox Pilgrim

Thu, 29 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela has become increasingly popular. This is not due to an upsurge in religious piety amongst the global travelling set. It is, rather, because the epic route across northern Spain has an unsung jewel in its crown: Galicia. Despite being a non-believer I’ve done the pilgrimage half a dozen times, in various ways, simply because travelling through Galicia is unflaggingly fascinating, spectacular and delicious.

There are multiple options for getting to Santiago (on foot, bicycle, donkey, car, bus, plane, horse-drawn cart, etc.) and a wide range of accommodation is available (from the humblest dormitory-style refuge to the thunderous luxury of the five-star Paradors). No matter how you do it, crossing from Leon into Galicia is like traversing a magical threshold: the flat dry plains of the meseta become the verdant mountains of Ancares; industrial farms turn into smallholdings flush with rural charm; Celtic music played on Galician gaita bagpipes starts to rule the airwaves; instead of more pork and eggs your table now overflows with seafood and spicy roasted peppers from Padron.

Beyond the orthodox glow of the cathedral and its tourist crowds, the city of Santiago is a vibrant university town, culturally diverse, gastronomically over-endowed, crammed full of artists. You can hardly step onto the street without being swept up in an impromptu concert or marching band or orchestral manoeuvers in the Galician dark. For dinner simply stroll down Rua do Franco or Rua Nova and get stuck into platters of pulpo (octopus), mussels, razor clams, scallops, and that odd gastronomic wonder of the Galician coast, percebes (gooseneck barnacles). Or, to sample the cutting edge of the new Galician cuisine, try the tasting menu at Casa Marcelo. Then seal the meal deal with some aguardiente (literally ‘fire water’)—served properly it will approach your table in a burning cauldron (called a queimada), with lemon peel, sugar and coffee beans. And much spirited chanting of the appropriate Gallego spell to ward off evil spirits.

Beyond Santiago lies Finisterre and the extremely rugged and often beautiful Galician coastline, punctured by a series of river estuaries and wild rocky beaches. The Celts considered this coast the end of the world; I consider it a place where unorthodox pilgrims contemplate the eternal return to Galicia—and start planning their next trip.

For 5-star Parador luxury in Santiago: www.paradores.es/en/portal.do
For an efficient 3-star alternative try Hotel Herradura: www.hotelherradura.es
For that odd gastronomic wonder: www.westcoastaquatic.ca/Percebes.htm
To ward off evil spirits use this spell: www.queimadasgalicia.com/spellofthequeimada.html

Rudston Steward has more stamps in his passport than an international jewel-thief. But he prefers truffles to diamond heists, and he's a fine-tuned nose to the ground for Trufflepig in Spain, Jordan, Greece, Italy and beyond.

Going Coastal

Tue, 27 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

Jordan Bower is a contributor to The Sounder, and a friend of us here on the Trufflepig farm. An avid traveller with a particular attachment to India, his new plan is to walk from Vancouver to the Mexican border, and this time he really wants to get other people involved in his trip. As tends to happen, we got curious and started asking questions:

What is the goal of your project?
I'm walking 1,800 miles down the pacific coast of the US as an experiment in cross-cultural storytelling. New technologies, especially the internet and digital cameras, have enabled people all over the world to see each other as never before. That's a really great thing, but we also have a tendency to interpret images according to our own biases. My goal is to try to dig deeper, to the human level, and attempt to build connections from there.

How did you come up with this idea, and what makes it important?
During a year and a half spent travelling in India, I thought extensively about the contrasts between that society and our own. One apparent observation related to the differing speeds of travel: in North America, things move impossibly fast; in India, impossibly slow. I could see the benefits of speed—especially when it came to things like health, visiting family, and overall efficiency—but in India, I came to appreciate the lessons that unfold at walking pace. This walk is an attempt to bring the idea of pilgrimage to fast-paced North America, and through my photography, to create something bigger than myself.

Tell us about other photography exhibits you've participated in, and how will this one compare?
My photos from wandering in India eventually grew into an exhibition on a public streetcar (trolley) in downtown Toronto for this past May's CONTACT Photo Festival. The idea was to present the photos I had taken in the way that they had occurred: as random, serendipitous interactions between strangers. The response was fabulous, and I really became aware of the power of these types of interactions in this type of space. My goal is to continue to explore positive ways to bring people together like this. With the photos that I'll take on my walk, I plan to travel to India to try the opposite experiment, holding a similar exhibition in a public place.

Why should readers back you instead of another charity or project?
There are hundreds of thousands of worthwhile charities and projects out there that are doing meaningful things for real people in need, and I hope that your readers have taken the time to connect with and contribute to at least one. My goal isn't to ask for charity so I can travel. Instead, I believe I am offering a value-for-value exchange. I am attempting to connect people with something deep within themselves and offer them, if they'd like, some inspiration and tools for change. This is the need I am hoping to meet. Through your support and attention, we can combine to learn and grow.

Contact Jordan if you'd like to walk with him on a portion of his journey, or learn more about his project. And if you like what you read here, there's more where that came from; visit our trip planning site, or check out our Facebook and Twitter pages.

Milfordicus Maximus

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

And I’d bet a golden grouse they’ve never seen it by helicopter. The truth is New Zealand’s epic fjord land can only be appreciated fully if seen from the air. Queenstown-based Over The Top is the region’s primo heli operator and the company to call when you want to get high. They have a handful of top-notch aircrafts, including a sleek and powerful Eurocopter—the pride of the fleet and the first of its kind in the country.

Depending on your appetite for adventure (and depth of pocket), you can do anything from a one and a half hour mini-Milford excursion (on a shared basis) to a six hour totally custom glacial mega adventure. Our suggestion is the four hour ‘Milford Heli Cruise’, which combines a boat cruise in Milford Sound, a glacier landing, and some phenomenal alpine flying. If you’re lucky you’ll find owner Louisa ‘Choppy’ Patterson, New Zealand’s first female heli pilot at the controls. Then again, all of OTP’s aces are adept at deliciously terrifying flying.

Charlie Scott is a speed and terror connoisseur (if you haven't noticed already). Get in touch with him to get on with your glacier hopping—or any other adventure you have in mind. And if you like what you read, follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

Frequenting the Futaleufú

Thu, 22 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

The Futaleufú River is a white-water rafter’s heaven. Known as the most difficult commercially rafted river in the world, Southern Chile’s "Fu" boasts rough and tough, exhilarating, fast moving rapids. Reading the trip’s description would make most sane people apprehensive. Jump into an inflatable raft with strangers who may or may not know how to paddle, travel through class five rapids (some, the biggest in the world), and try not to flip. Easier said than done.

The trip began with an unconventional swim test. After practicing a flip drill, where eight people purposely capsized a boat into frigid waters, we swam, or rather, struggled to catch a current that either traveled back to the safety of the raft, or toward powerfully raging rapids.

Once these terrifying preliminaries were out of the way, however, the rafting itself was absolutely thrilling. Each pass down the river, a risky maneuver, was executed mainly by the guide and aided by our “paddling skills”. The rapids were large, unpredictable, and not always accommodating. Sitting in the front had me incessantly drenched. At one point, an enormous wave catapulted me out of the boat and into roaring waters.

Apart from the exhilarating river passes themselves (The "House of Rocks" could not have been more aptly named), you’ll experience amazing camps along the way (mountaintop tree houses and natural stone hot tubs included), on site massage for your aching muscles (in a heated tent!), and delectable local food (Chilean farmers grill the best lamb you’ve tasted).

For the days not spent on the river paddling, dive into other action-packed sports. Rappelling will have you skimming down 300-foot cliffs. Canyoneering tests both balance and agility while jumping between boulders on a small river. If you’re searching for an intensely active vacation, we’ve found your answer.

Karis MacDougall doesn't have much interest in lazy holidays spent at an all-inclusive resort. If you share her enthusiasm for the adventurous, get in touch and find out what we can plan for you. And if you liked this post, follow us on Twitter and Facebook.

Paris for Princes and Paupers

Wed, 21 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

I’ll come clean straight away. I’m a picnic guy. Fine wines with no corkage fees, real sand in your sandwiches, and of course being male, I’ll leap at any chance to use a penknife. The Seine is ground zero for the picnic fan. Five miles of fantastic picnic spots, which of a summer evening teem with picnickers young and old, and which are the best way to enjoy a great Parisian evening; you can do it for little or no money, while at the same time feeling somewhat local. The best spots are on the map below - put the map to satellite view. Views of Notre Dame trump those of the Eiffel Tower, because the quais on the two islands are quieter than further west.

At the other end of the scale are the bateaux mouches—the cruise boats that offer daytime or dinner cruises up and down the Seine from roughly the Eiffel Tower to the Pont d’Austerlitz. These come in all shapes and sizes, and we like the very best: the Yachts de Paris for their excellent boats, or the Bateaux Parisiens for something less formal. Unlike when you picnic, you can’t take your own wine, so once on-board beware the astronomical cost of a coupe de champagne served as the Louvre slips by; or opt for a drinks-included option. I’ve rarely seen a pricier wine-list than on board the Don Juan II.

Which brings me neatly to the third and most astronomical option: the Tour d’Argent. Of the few restaurants that have genuine river views, this is the gold standard, with prices to match. The wine list weighs about as much as a bateau mouche and is one of the city’s most awesome documents. It can tell you as much about France as a two hour lecture in the Louvre.

Cruising with the Don Juan takes you from the Port Henri IV quite far out of the main centre, to the Ile Seguin which used to be the Renault factory, and about which tourists will soon be hearing a lot more. The idea is to bring you back past the Eiffel Tower at 11:00 pm when it lights up like a firecracker, at which point even the most cynical tourist will grin and forget the bill.

Jack Dancy lives in the beautiful, picnic-friendly city of Paris—we're quite jealous about it here in the Toronto office. If you're ready to hop the pond and join him, get in touch and find out more about our trip planning services.

Serengeti Special

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

This year has been an exciting one in the Serengeti, with the giant migratory herds splitting into two and completing early river crossings of both the Grumeti and Mara Rivers. The migration is still in full swing and the fine people at Nomad Tanzania have sweetened their already sweet deal to encourage everyone to see this awesome natural spectacle. Trust me, I mean that in the classic sense, as in; “the sight of hundreds of thousands of animals crossing the Mara river at once is truly awesome,” rather than the more common, “man, this beer is awesome!”

Nomad is already giving a 20% discount on all bookings confirmed before the end of July at any of their camps and now they are giving an extra 10% discount on top of that. This is not just in the Serengeti, but at all their camps in Tanzania. This additional offer can be applied to any new enquiry made and within 30 days of travel and while the 20% discount expires at the end of July, the 10% discount will continue for the foreseeable future. Go, you’ll be properly awed and you will most definitely pause in wonder too.

Dan Achber is truly awesome—in the sense that he can plan a once in a lifetime safari for you. Get in touch with him, and find out more about our trip planning services.

The First Castilian Frontier

Fri, 16 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

The area between Castile and southwestern La Rioja is off the tourist map, which tends to fast-forward to either the city of Burgos (to the west) or the wine bodegas of the Riojan plains (to the north). The unexplored and overlooked territory in between has more tricks up its sleeve than crafty El Cid himself, and more glinting rugged charm than a Charlton Heston smile.

The Arlanza River formed the first frontier of the Reconquista in the 10th century, when Count Fernan Gonzalez established a series of castles along its banks. A number of these, in varying states of elegant disrepair, await the intrepid explorer—as do the spartan little hermitages and opulent monasteries that dot the countryside between the towns of Covarrubias and Salas de los Infantes. And be sure, also, to seek out the Neolithic dolmens and fossilized dinosaur tracks tucked away amongst the area’s Visigothic shrines and Mozarabic chapels.

Transhumance, the yearly migration of livestock for grazing to and from Extremadura in southern Spain, is still practiced here by some. Cowboys and shepherds are thus regular features at your local meson (restaurant). They are usually seen swilling beakers of Duero wine and devouring the region’s gastronomic trademark, morcilla—the best blood pudding you will ever taste. Head for Restaurante de Galo in Covarrubias for the cream of the crop.

Beyond the plains, the Sierra de la Demanda mountains preserve some of the most unspoilt and extensive hiking country in Spain. With peaks over 2,000m above sea level (some, like Neila and Urbion, have glacial lakes), this is a happy hunting ground for hikers, trekkers, day-trippers and climbers. Base yourself either in Neila or the slightly larger town of Quintanar de las Sierras to go exploring the high hills. For very simple, very friendly accommodation in the latter, try Hostal Santo Domingo.

Once you’ve had your fill of the fresh mountain air, the seemingly endless trails through pine, oak and beech woods, and the wide vistas over the Castilian plateau, traverse the sierras and drop down to the plains of Najera. Then reward yourself with a bottle of Riojan Reserva, a bowl of bold sopa de ajo (garlic soup) and a rack of that justifiably famous Riojan lamb. A meal fit for a Castilian count—or cowboy.

Rudston Steward has more stamps in his passport than an international jewel-thief. But he prefers truffles to diamond heists, and he's a fine-tuned nose to the ground for Trufflepig in Spain, Jordan, Greece, Italy and beyond.

Riding with the Tour de France

Thu, 15 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

Logistics can be challenging, with hotels booked up months in advance and road closures at every turn, but the payoffs more than make up for the inconveniences. A carnival atmosphere sweeps over the quiet mountain passes, with caravans jockeying for top viewing positions and the villagers proudly showing off their local wares. Bike stands pop up in every town square and the entire country seems to be awash in neon lycra. Hell, I got so into it I even shaved my legs.

The best days to watch are the mountain stages in the Alps & the Pyrenees, when the riders slow down enough so you can pick them out from the amorphous blur. Arrive early and test yourself on these historic climbs, then pull over and let the pros do their thing while you eat humble pie (over there they call it Tarte du Humilité). Last year the pros' average speed was over 40 kms an hour over 3500 kms of road—doping or no doping that's a staggering feat.

In between stages, why not helicopter to the beaches of the Côte d'Azur, tour the antique markets of Provence, kayak in the Ardèche or go wine tasting in Burgundy? July is a brilliant month to travel around France, so next year let us help you be there in person rather than watching it on TV.

www.letour.fr

Greg Sacks' (once again) hairy legs are momentarily grounded in our Toronto office. If you're looking to plan ahead for the next Tour de France (or a Tour de any-place-you-like, really), get in touch with us to talk about our trip planning services.

Upper Class

Wed, 14 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

It took a little while to find it among the spaghetti-like pedestrian pathways of Hong Kong, but it was worth the wander. A part of the extensive Pacific Place shopping centre, The Upper House has somehow managed to obtain a discreet back entrance, where one feels as though a limousine would be the only appropriate car to arrive in.

Now skip ahead 38 floors (that's where the hotel's rooms begin), and relax during your in room check in. There's none of the bustle of a large chain hotel lobby to contend with—no luggage being whisked about, no convention-goers marching to and fro, no phones ringing shrilly through your brain. It's just you and your impossibly plush carpet (seriously, you could sink into it up to the knee).

The perfect little touches don't stop there. Enjoy down bedding, your all inclusive "maxi bar" with snacks and beverages available all day, and a personal iPod touch which acts as a complete paperless hotel directory. Stop in for a bite to eat at the sleek Café Gray Deluxe, or just stay in to lounge on your corner sofa. But the best part of your visit will be the wide views over the city and harbour, seen right from your bed.

The Upper House has meshed the world class service of a large top tier hotel with a feeling of intimacy and exclusivity; it's as though you've stumbled upon the holiday penthouse of the three bears.

Amy Smithers was not able to sample any porridge at Cafe Gray, but she's sure the temperature would be just right. If you're looking to visit Southeast Asia, Hong Kong is the perfect gateway city; get in touch with us for more trip planning help.

Not Available Online

Mon, 12 Jul 2010 04:00:00 GMT

You can google-streetview your hotel before arriving and surf down the narrowest backstreets of the smallest village atop the ghastly google car. Read endless blogs to find out what the hottest local restaurant is, what to order when you get there, and which table to demand. It’s fantastic—when you arrive, nothing is left to chance. View pictures taken by the web-obsessed tourist who ate there last night. Geolocate a local craftsman with your iPhone app. Never eat anything the New York Times hasn’t already described to you. You’re so in the know, you’ll never make an error, and likely not ever make a discovery.

Thankfully for the sake of our sanity, most of the world is still not on the internet. Yup, athough it sounds terribly inefficient, there are places I’m afraid you actually have to go and see for yourself. Case in point: La Poterie de la Hulotte in Caylus. A third generation potter who throws traditional-shaped pots, jugs, utensils and decorative items from fine clay sourced in Burgundy and thrown in his small workshop. I asked young Mr. Carriquiry whether he had an online store. His pottery is so lovely and so unreasonably cheap I had visions of him making millions selling over the internet to every corner of the world.

"No, it wouldn’t work," comes the reply. Each pot and plate is too different. People would order from the picture, get something a shade lighter or rougher, and you can imagine the complaints. And he can’t produce it fast enough. In fact, he doesn’t even sell in the local markets. You have to go to Caylus, on the two mornings a week when he’s open, hope that he actually is open, and meet the man himself. How inefficient. That’ll never work.

But it seems to. He makes beautiful stuff. Caylus is worth the visit. It also has one of the best traiteurs in the region, who not only has a real website, but with whom I am friends on Facebook. Call me a luddite, but although it’s great fun to read his status updates (“... is making 150kg of Toulouse sausage”) it’s still even more fun to actually eat the stuff.

Jack Dancy loves Steve Jobs as much as the next Macworld subscriber, but there's still a special place in his heart reserved for the good old ways of doing things. Contact him to get a little more authenticity out of your trip to Europe, and take a look at our trip planning site while you're at it.