October
13
2009
By Jordan Bower
Cochin is one of my favourite places in India. It’s a colonial and breezy seafront town, the kind of place where you wander through art galleries, ride bikes through the lazy streets, and fall in love. Last time I was there, I did all three.
Here’s my favourite way to spend a day in Cochin: I get up early and walk to the seafront to watch the fishermen pulling in their catch from a night on the sea. After some time spent doing the fisherman’s equivalent of chewing the cud, I like to walk to nearby Burgher Street and go for brunch at the Kashi Art Café. Sometimes I spend hours there, chatting with travellers from around the world, reading the local newspaper, and eating comfort food like french toast and chocolate cake.
After brunch, I like to walk over to the next block and rent a heavy Indian–made bicycle. My favourite ride is down towards the ferry docks and around the headland, on the way to Mattancherry. In between all the fragrant spice merchant shops are hidden a number of good contemporary art galleries. Last time I was at the Kashi Art Gallery—sister to the café; hey, I told you the chocolate cake was good—I saw a great exhibit by an expat photographer named Waswo X Waswo. It’s really interesting to see how artists are confronting contemporary issues in India.
Along that main road, there are some fascinating colonial relics, including churches, a palace, even a synagogue. Cochin has been a trading port for centuries and is filled with beautiful architecture. When I’m feeling adventurous, I take the long way back; cycling through the heart of the headland, exploring the sites, stopping in to chat with banana exporters, visiting a temple to shoot a photo of an elephant.
By now, it’s late in the day, so I go to the football field near the center of town and throw a frisbee around with some peaceable locals. If I want seafood, I’ll walk along the oceanfront boardwalk and barter with the fisherman over some fresh shrimp or fish; when you agree on a price, he'll cook it on his barbecue. If not, my favourite restaurant is called Dal Roti, serving North Indian comfort food in a homely environment, just around the corner from the Malabar House.
Jordan Bower is a Canadian photographer embroiled in a serious love affair with India. He spent several months researching and travelling throughout India this past winter and spring. Visit his portfolio and daily photoblog at www.jordanbower.com, and check out his other favourite spots here.