August
12
2010
By Robyn Hodson
The car journey from Cape Town up the Garden Route to Plettenberg Bay would start with a mini-drama, guaranteed. It almost always involved my brother and I being spanked by my father 100m from our house for declaring an energetic ‘thumb war’ in the back seat.
Four hours later, stuffed with cheeseburger from the Wimpy at Riversdale, my nose would turn to the open window seeking the herby smell of buchu. It was amazing how this olfactory ambush could pinpoint the moment on the journey, almost to the mile, that we’d see the sea. And there the holiday would begin.
Today the drive is pretty similar apart from the property explosion up the coast. The Wimpy, remarkably, has stood the test of time… and the buchu still hijacks the senses, a nostalgic passage to another time. Even now I’m like a meerkat, excitedly scanning the horizon for that telltale blue so I can yell with kiddy glee: “The sea, I see the sea!” Once spotted, the coastal drive from Mossel Bay through the Wilderness, past Sedgefield and along the lagoon to Knysna is one of the most beautiful in South Africa.
As soon as I reach Plett, I always fling down my things and head straight for the beach. The Robberg peninsula is vast, the beaches sandy and wonderful for long walks. Lone surfers flash through the waves, gulls wheel and squabble overhead and there’s always a golden retriever taking himself for a walk.
Locals will tell you to go and eat at Enrico’s, 15 minutes drive from Plett on the Keurbooms side. It’s one of those big, noisy restaurants spilling out onto a wide lawn with tables, umbrellas and views over the sea. I love the casual atmosphere where on one side you can spy a family tucking into proper Italian pizzas, but if you’re in the mood, you can also order oysters, crayfish and champagne. Without fail, the dolphins will come in the late afternoon, as if on the payroll, to pirouette and play in the waves to the delight of the diners.
I’ve done it all in terms of accommodation in Plett. I recommend the camp site at Keurbooms—book in advance and get a lagoon-side spot. If you’re being relatively low-key, stay at Emily Moon. If you’re on honeymoon or going the whole hog, stay at The Plettenberg. It has pride of place on top of a rocky promontory with sweeping views of the coastline and sea. It’s a five star hotel, yes, but it certainly isn't stuffy or predictable. I was so overwhelmed by the beachy vistas, the delightful staff would run around each morning with a table and my breakfast, trying to find a new view for me to enjoy!
Robyn Hodson very much enjoyed letting her inner child splash around in the sea. If you're planning a similar trip, check out our trip planning site, and follow us on Facebook and Twitter for more updates.