October
15
2009
By Jordan Bower
Found: a family-run farm in tropical India on an idyllic island surrounded by swaying palm trees. Looking for: a laidback attitude, a sense of adventure, and a big appetite. Apply within.
Kerala’s Backwaters are hundreds of miles of winding lagoons, rice paddies, coconut palms, and spice plantations squeezed towards the bottom of India’s southwestern coast. Small fishing and agricultural villages line the waterways and uniquely constructed churches dot the landscape; unlike most of India, this region is predominantly Christian. It’s beautiful, bucolic, and green.
A place this beautiful is sure to have dozens of hotels and resorts (Privacy, another favourite, is nearby). But it’s a unique experience to spend several nights at Philipkutty’s Farm. It’s a family-run, 50-acre organic farm on an island reclaimed by the current owner’s grandfather. Several airy, traditionally-styled villas surround the family home where the grandmother cooks delicious local seafood and other Keralan specialties.
During the day, you can wander around the farm, chat with the family, have a cooking class, or sit on a patio and watch the rice-loaded boats float by. There’s no television, no air conditioning, and no swimming pool: the farm is intentionally simple. You’re here to downshift, to do some writing and reading, and to get an authentic experience of the Keralan way of life.
Amu is the auntie in charge of the property, and she’ll meet you at the foot of the island with a smile as you arrive, punted across in a traditional boat. The family is warm and are excellent, educated communicators. If you’ve got a bit of extra time to spend in the area—or if you’ve got children—this is a hotel worth making a destination in it’s own right. The scenery and the exquisite food certainly help.
Jordan Bower is a Canadian photographer embroiled in a serious love affair with India. He spent several months researching and travelling throughout India this past winter and spring. Visit his portfolio and daily photoblog at www.jordanbower.com, and check out his other favourite spots here.