October
19
2009
By Jordan Bower
Varanasi is one of the world’s maddest places. Stretched along the banks of the holy Ganges river, this vibrant ecstatic city has been India’s cultural and religious heart for thousands of years.
Mark Twain put it best: “[Varanasi] is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” Here are four must dos for your visit to the City of Light.
Spend an hour people watching at Harishchandra Ghat
For Hindus, Varanasi is the place to be cremated. Several burning areas are scattered along the Ganges riverbank. Harishchandra Ghat, one such area, is an ideal place to observe the ritual: it’s a bit out of the city center on a quieter, less crowded stretch of the Ganges. There are a few chaiwallahs on the nearby steps to serve you plaster mugs of the sweet tea: grab a seat and people watch.
Visit the Sankat Mochan Temple
There are thousands of temples in Varanasi, but one must see is the Sankat Mochan Temple, honouring Hanuman, the monkey god. It’s a busy, important, and monkey filled temple where you’ll get to see Hindus casually going through their prayer rites in the midst of a boisterous atmosphere. In a side room off the main altar, there’s a set of beautiful, centuries-old paintings depicting scenes of local sites and gods. It’s a bit outside the city center, but worth the trip.
Take a side trip to Sarnath and follow the steps of the Buddha
For millennia, Varanasi has been an important spiritual center for Hindus and non-Hindus alike. It was at nearby Sarnath that Gautama Buddha gave his first teachings after attaining enlightenment. Today, dozens of ancient monuments mark the site, the legacy of the Buddhist emperor Ashoka; for subsequent centuries it has become a gathering place for Buddhist teachers. The Dalai Lama is a frequent visitor to Sarnath, often holding public teachings; nearby, a university dedicated to Tibetan Buddhism perpetuates the study of Buddha’s teachings.
Get lost in Varanasi’s Old City
The Old City of Varanasi is a twisting maze of narrow alleyways and lanes, lined with shops selling silk, religious artifacts, small pots of water from the Ganges, and banana lassis galore. Head down any of the alleyways away from the main chowk and find yourself in India at its most colourful and chaotic: mean, meandering bulls; honking motorcycles; hotel and restaurant touts; bodies held high on their way to cremation; beautiful, crumbling architecture; local residents visiting markets, attending temples, and chatting lazily in courtyards. Poke your head into unexpected places and enjoy India’s unparalleled hospitality. If you want to get really lost, visit the local lassi shop and order a bhang lassi: a mild cannabis derivative, permitted in Varanasi and sold at a government shop especially for use by mourners. Make sure to give yourself the rest of the afternoon off.
Chill out near Assi Ghat (a bonus stop)
Most of the hassle of Varanasi is centered around the main Dasaswamedh Ghat and the Old City. A short rickshaw ride to the west is Assi Ghat, a favourite place for local festivals and a calm area to sit quietly by the river. There’s a great pizza place right on the Ghat with a leafy patio and beautiful views. Up the street, past a number of English bookshops, is the Open Hand Café, an eco-aware coffee shop selling delicious desserts, as well as artisan-crafted clothing and home furnishings. It’s generally filled with foreign university students abroad for the semester. You can chat with them to find out what’s going on in the local music scene: Assi Ghat is a meeting point for traditional and contemporary musicians from around the world.
Jordan Bower got himself intentionally lost in Varanasi this past spring; he really didn't want to come back home. More of Jordan's photography can be found at www.jordanbower.com, and check out his other posts on the Sounder.