May
26
2010
By Robyn Hodson
I’m one of those travellers who is genuinely peeved when I arrive at a major attraction and find tourists there. I mean, what’s that about?
So I spend a lot of time conjuring clever ways to break from the pack… like going round the wrong way, arriving at dawn / midnight, viewing from a balloon / microlite / elephant or practising extreme forms of bribery so as to avoid the crowds… most especially the family over there in matching turquoise Crocs™ and that group of one-hundred-and-fifty people with the tour guide reading from The Lonely Planet. OUT LOUD!
I believe that if you have to see a touristy place, the more people you can avoid the better your view, sense of place and general enjoyment. Of course, crowds are even more annoying when it’s a zillion degrees outside with humidity at 100%. So when you’re leaving Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and travelling around two hours northwest to the Cu Chi tunnels, make sure you’re doing it before dawn. You’ll get out of the city before the monstrous traffic starts up and you’ll arrive whilst it’s morning-cool and tourist-free.
The Cu Chi tunnels are a must visit, if only to stand in absolute amazement at the patience and determination that the Viet Minh and, later, the Viet Cong demonstrated in building them. At one time, the North Vietnamese had a network of over 250 kms of underground tunnels stretching all the way to Cambodia, allowing them to penetrate deeply into US / South Vietnamese territory. A local guide will take you round the site and show you the hideous conditions these people suffered – not to mention the effects on their enemies who sent forces in after them (remember the Tunnel Rats?) and who also succumbed to torturous booby-traps and surprise attacks above ground.
Tourists can try and fit into the original tunnels, but those who are not Kate Moss should probably try the widened ‘Western-visitor’ variety. There’s also a shooting range and the chance to unleash your inner GI Joe by firing an AK47 or M16. You pay per bullet… so watch your money literally disappear in a puff of smoke.
For something totally different, drive from Cu Chi and on to Tay Ninh, the home of the Holy See (City) of the Cao Dai religion. This fascinating and syncretistic faith combines elements of many of the world’s religions – not only Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism and Christianity but also Hinduism, Islam, Judaism and other indigenous Vietnamese religions. Make sure you read about it before you go if only to marvel at their Patron Saints: Joan of Arc, Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin being among my personal favourites.
Take in the beauty of the gardens, stadium, school and dwellings… then spend time inside their weirdly wonderful Great Divine Temple before observing the noon day service from a viewing gallery. Annoying tourist antics are kept to a satisfying minimum as everyone… wait for it… has to remove their shoes AND keep quiet!