Photography:
Slideshow Garland vendors await early morning business at Delhi's Phool Mandi Flower Market Jordan Bower
Slideshow Sharing the love Jordan Bower
Slideshow Bright colours cheer up a chilly November morning Jordan Bower
Slideshow "I knew I should have bought chocolates!" Jordan Bower
Slideshow The market runs 365 days a year; it's one of Asia's largest, grossing more than $100,000 a day Jordan Bower
Slideshow "Don't stop to smell! The roses, coming through." Jordan Bower
Slideshow Waiting for business along the roadside Jordan Bower
Slideshow Hundreds of delivery boys ferry cut flowers to shops all around the city Jordan Bower
Slideshow "Not tourist price! Local price!" Jordan Bower
Slideshow Two vendors share an Indian moment amid the chaos Jordan Bower
Slideshow Acting cool: the essential negotiating tactic Jordan Bower
Slideshow A lower-caste worker toils away for a few rupees, at the Flower Market near Connuaght Place Jordan Bower
October 26 2009
See & Do

Smelling the Roses in Delhi

By Jordan Bower

Asia, India, Delhi

Delhi is a smelly place. This is the one section of town where the scents are fragrant.

Every morning, the city’s flower vendors congregate on the Phool Mandi Flower Market just outside of New Delhi’s heart, Connaught Place. Here, dozens of wholesalers hock their colourful wares. On a cool winter morning, when the smog has rolled over the city, the market is nearly as bright as the sunrise. A visit to the market is a fun, local experience.

The market starts at first light and is best between 6:30 and 8:30, so wake up early. If you’re craving a cheap, authentic breakfast after some time at the market, there’s a branch of Saravana Bhavan, the chain of South Indian restaurants, just around the corner. Start your day with some local flavour: try a tasty lentil pancake, called a masala dosa, stuffed with potatotes and flavoured with coconut chutney.

Jordan Bower is a slightly biased writer—he loves Delhi in spite of its less pleasant scents. Jordan visited India this past winter and spring, and you can check out his other posts here. His photography can be found at www.jordanbower.com.